Floristry wire is used for a variety of different projects, from constructing beautiful flower crowns to delicate boutonnieres and corsages. Their main purpose is to secure flower heads, foliage and embellishments to a base or other stems, while providing support.
Floristry wire comes in a variety of thickness levels – the higher the gauge number the finer the wire, which must be considered carefully when creating your design. A wire too thick can tear and bruise your stock, while one too thin may not offer enough support.
Gauge Sizes include: 16,18, 20, 22, 24, 26 and 28.
- Gauges 24, 26 and 28 are popular for flower work.
- 24-gauge is good for roses and carnations and heavier flowers or larger foliage to provide support and control.
- 26 and 28 gauges are better for delicate and lightweight blooms, filler flowers or fine foliage on the outer perimeter of the design.
We're here to explain the 7 different wiring methods you can utilise when creating your arrangement. If you'd like a step-by-step guide on how to create multiple different projects (such as flower crowns, wreaths and garlands) stay tuned for our Miei Academy Learning Modules launching soon!
Ideal for flowers with a tubular shape, like stephanotis. Bend the wire into a large U-shape. Insert a small piece of moist cotton to the bend. Pull the wire down into the flower and wrap it around the stem.
Clutch or Wrap-Around Method
Ideal for filler flowers and small mass flowers like baby’s breath and statice. Wrap a light wire around the stem or cluster several times. Then, bend the two wire ends down alongside the stem or stems.
Piercing Method – Double Cross Piercing Method
Ideal for roses, carnations, and other flowers with a large calyx. Insert the wire halfway through the calyx of the flower, then bend both ends down. Slightly twist the wire together at the end to make wrapping the wires together easier.
Ideal for daffodils, asters, and other flowers with well-attached heads. Cut the stem to about 1” and insert the wire inside the stem. Push the wire up until it is in the flower head. The wire must NOT be visible from the top of the flower.
Ideal for chrysanthemums, daisies, flowers with flattened heads and hard centres, or any flower likely to break off at the head. Insert the wire into the base of the flower head. Push the wire through until it comes out on top of the flower. Make a small hook from this wire, then carefully pull it back down into the centre of the flower. The wire must NOT be visible.
Ideal for foliage with broad leaves, like camellia and ivy. Pass a wire through the back of the leaf near the central rib and then through the other side, making a small “stitch.” The stitch should be midway up the leaf blade. Bend the ends of the wire down beside the rib to support the leaf. Wrap one end of the wire around the stem and the other end of the wire to secure it.
Ideal for supporting the necks of roses or other flowers arranged in vases. Stick the end of the wire into the base of the flower. Wind it down the stem between the leaves.